A short stop in Lunenburg

Though we usually like to keep our schedule flexible, we had pretty firm plans to be in Tatamagouche by the coming Friday, which left us with a two day window to make a short exploration of another part of Nova Scotia.  We narrowed it down to Lunenburg and Peggy’s Cove, two high profile tourist areas on the coast.  After checking the caravan itinerary of our new friends Roy and Theresa, whom we had met in Newport, and seeing that they were in Lunenburg, the decision became easy.

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One of many picturesque spots in downtown Lunenburg.

Roy and Theresa are on a 49 day guided caravan tour of the the eastern provinces.  These sorts of things involve paying a set, nearly all inclusive fee, with the organizers defining the route, making all reservations, and coordinating most of the activities in each location.  The number of rigs participating (over 20) meant that the municipal park right in Lunenburg was completely booked, so we made reservations at Little Lake Family Campground just a few miles outside town.  It seemed a little pricey by Canadian standards, but it was a nice place with very friendly owners in a key location, so paying $39.50 (USD) a night for a fully serviced site is not too bad.  2-saltbox-brewery

We arrived mid afternoon in the rain, and as the weather showed little sign of abating we mostly stayed inside the first day.  Things were better on day 2, and we were able to meet up with Roy and Theresa at Saltbox Brewery in nearby Mahone Bay.  We had a great couple of hours catching up over a couple of pints.  They are truly “our kind of people,” and hope that our travels put us back together many times in the future. 3-roy-theresa

We also owe them for introducing us to Nova Scotia’s Good Cheer Trail, very similar to the beer and distillery program we stumbled into in Maine.  Essentially, a “passport” with a region by region list of all of the participating Nova Scotia breweries, distilleries, cider houses, and vineyards, with a spot for a stamp at each one you visit, and the promise of a Good Cheer t-shirt if you go to 15.  Game on!  The Good Cheer Trail would turn out to have a big influence on the direction of our daily outings for the rest of our time in the province.  4-downtown-art-loki

We had just on afternoon to explore the town, so we made the best of it.  First, a geocache took us to the Lunenburg Academy, an impressive structure holding both historical and architectural significance.  Built between 1893 and 1895, it still functions as a school for primary age kids, but also as the local library.  The geocache took us to a clue outside of the building, and the clue led us inside to a specific book.  Neat! 5-old-school-now-library

We headed downtown to enjoy the harbor, gift shops, and galleries.  At one of which, Coastal Reflections, we discovered some incredible jewelry at surprisingly affordable prices.  Since our anniversary was quite close, we splurged for this one of a kind bracelet “Triton’s Domain” by the artist Marina Smith.  Stunning! 6-bracelet

And wouldn’t you know it, Lunenburg had not one but two stops on the Good Cheer Trail!  We had a flight at Shipwright Brewing Company, a tiny little place attached to a larger restaurant.  Good beer, and a friendly server who provided some recommendations for other spots to hit once he learned our our travel direction.  Then it was on to Ironworks Distillery for some samples of rum, gin, and liqueur and a peak at their impressive equipment.  Oh, and they had a geocache inside as well, so bonus. 7-distillery-2

That’s it, we only had two days and only one with decent weather.  Lunenburg is not a big town, but another day would have been worthwhile to more fully explore some of the nearby areas, but as mentioned at the top, we had plans to return to Tatamagouche, one of our favorite towns from last year.

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Only had time for a few of them.

First 2019 stops in Canada: Walmarts and Kejimkujik National Park

Last year we started our Canada run with one short stop in New Brunswick, the first province you hit coming out of Maine, followed by two excellent locations in Nova Scotia which we loved enough to make sure they would be on our list of return spots.  Having so thoroughly enjoyed both Tatamagouche and Inverness, we assumed there must be any number of other places in Nova Scotia that would be right for us, and researched accordingly.  One of the top internet recommendations was Kejimkujick National Park, located in a region of NS we had yet to explore.  We put it on our priority list, and based upon our other date specific plans in late June and early July it made sense to hit Keji as our first Canadian destination.

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Just cleared at the border.

But we had to get there first, and given our preferred daily drive time in the big RV, we elected to make two consecutive Walmart parking lot overnight stops in route.  I suspect a good number of non-RVers find this concept rather odd, as if we are on the verge of homelessness when parking lot camping, but keep in mind we have our entire home with us.  This means we have our own bathroom and shower, our own fully equipped kitchen, our own bed, and more.

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PKM not sure she approves of this Canadian travel.

We have “lot camped” more than a score of times in our 4 1/2 years of RVing, and have never had a problem.  Heck, counting from last year we have stayed in four Canadian Walmarts and that’s with less than two months total in this country.  The All Stays website can be sorted to show only big box parking lots along with which ones allow overnight stays and which do not.  We can pull into a big lot, whether it be Walmart, Home Depot, Cabela’s, or Cracker Barrel (some of the most common establishments that allow overnight RV parking,) position ourselves on the outer boundary, open up slides on the non-parking lot side, run our generator for a bit if needed, and spend an easy and free night.  Many of them are situated close to interstates or other major arteries, so they are often quite convenient.3-lot

On our route to Nova Scotia we stopped in Sussex, New Brunswick, then Truro, Nova Scotia.  We stocked up on supplies, made a minor repair to Loki (headlight bulb replacement), and spent a lot of time indoors on the laptop or watching downloaded Netflix shows since we had hours of light drizzle and rain for both stops.  During breaks I did some geocaching in both locations, sometimes just to get out of the RV for a bit. 4-ns-visitor-center

We made the last leg of our run to Kejimkujik having secured a four day reservation at Jeremy’s Bay campground, the only option in the park for RVs.  They have a couple of hundred sites, but only a portion of them are serviced, so you have to pay attention during the reservation process.   Weekends during the summer can be tough, but we kept checking for cancellations and found our four days starting on a Saturday.  5-rose

A camping reservation at Canadian National Parks does not include the actual park pass fee; you make that payment separately upon arrival.  It increases your daily camping fee quite a lot, but even with the added cost we were paying about $33 (USD) a night, all in.  We recommend having a good idea of your plans for the rest of your Canadian tour, i.e., if will you be hitting any other national parks.  That way you can properly assess if you should get a daily pass for the park, an annual pass for the park, or an annual pass for all of their national parks (about $105 USD at the current exchange rate.)  6-canoe-lake

We, of course, did not have this level of planning and thus opted for the daily pass.  Had we stayed one day longer, an annual pass for just Kejimkujik would have been better, and since leaving Keji, we have already stumbled across another national park and paid a one day admission fee.  The amount we have spent is a little short of halfway to the price for two annual passes to all of the Canadian national parks, so if we hit a few more, especially if it includes a few days of camping, it may turn out that we made the wrong decision. Oh well. 7-falls

So, Kejimkujik: we had a good time despite a moderate amount of drizzle and rain.  Our site was located in a fully wooded area with medium tree canopy over every spot, which is exactly how we like it.  This made it beautiful and shaded, though the temperatures probably would not have required A/C use anyway, which was good because we did not have a fully working electrical post for the first two days.  12-pitcher-plant

I assessed, correctly it would turn out, that the 30 amp breaker was bad, and unfortunately the park’s maintenance electrician was off duty.  They offered us the option of switching sites, but we had already fully set up, and the regular 15 amp plug in would be fine to charge our batteries and run most of our stuff if we were careful.  RV Pro-Tip: you should carry adapters to convert your main shore power cable to all options, 50, 30, and 15 amp.  They had us fully up and running first thing on day three.

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Our wooded site.

Another lesson learned: the serviced sites are electric only, but they do have a large multi-lane dump and fill station.  Unfortunately, all of the fill stations assumed RVs with a gravity fed, top fill option; none of the stations had a threaded connection for those like our rigs that require it.  We have been doing this RV thing long enough such that we are in the habit of leaving all of our parks with a full water tank and empty black (sewage) and grey (shower and sinks) tanks, so despite having already dry camped for two nights we would be fine, but it was still a surprise.  9-us-canoe

While sorting out the electrical issue, which entailed driving back and forth between our site and the camping registration office, we experienced a bit more drama: the bicycle rack mounted to our spare tire on Loki’s tail gate fell off, with both bikes attached.  The mounting plate completely failed, dumping the set onto the road, substantially bending the back rim on my bike.  We are lucky this did not occur at speed on a main road!  I was (barely) able to ride the wobbly bike back to camp, brake rubbing and derailer clicking the whole way.  I am no longer a fan of the spare tire mounting system.  Hopefully Thule will provide us a refund.  img_20190622_171820

The weather meant we were unable to take full advantage of our stay, particularly the apparently spectacular star gazing this dark sky area can provide, but we made the best of it.  We explored several recommended areas by car and foot and did some geocaching both in the park and the nearby small towns.  On our last full day we rented a canoe for an afternoon on the rivers and one of the big lakes, which yielded some close up encounters with five or so doe and fawns.

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There’s a deer in there.

On our final night we had clear enough skies to enjoy a nice bit of stargazing, but would have really enjoyed one of the dedicated night time guided explanations in the designated observation circle nearby.  Our timing was not right for that, so perhaps on a future stay.   Also, we did not make it over to the coast to see the Kejimkujik seashore annex, and learned shortly after we left that park officials had closed it for excessive bear activity.

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16 Geocaches during our stay.

Blog status: After a flurry of ten posts in June we got Shell On Wheels blog to under three weeks out of date.  A lackadaisical two posts during the first ten days of July, however, dropped us back a bit, but with this post so quickly following our Lubec one, we are back under three weeks behind.  Getting close! 13-lake-reflection

 

 

 

 

Another fantastic little Maine town: Lubec

While we have generally followed our 2019 route plan, the great thing about our style of RVing is the flexibility to change it on short notice if something fun or interesting comes up.  We make very few reservations more than a week in advance of our travels with the exception of very difficult to secure places, such as Key West, Bahia Honda, and Gilchrist Blue Springs.  We find that once we arrive in a state and meet locals, they have all kinds of recommendations for other spots within their state we should visit.  If we had a hard itinerary, it would be far more difficult to include such stops.

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PKM appreciates the shorter trips between sites.

And so having enjoyed our stay in the Ellsworth-Bar Harbor area with the intentions of  heading directly to Canada upon departure, we changed things up after receiving a recommendation from RV friend Jim, who we met way back in 2015 in Bay Breeze RV Park during our first full time RV venture out of Florida.  He pointed us towards the easternmost point of Maine, which led to some quick research on the region and the decision to check out Lubec for a few days before moving on to Canada.

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Local artist mural on the wall of the local Lubec brewery.

What a great recommendation and lucky decision!  Let’s start with our campground, Sunset Point RV Park, selected after our usual cross referencing of Passport-America (no options in the area,) All Stays, and RV Park Reviews.  It is situated on a bay with all sites pointed west towards the water.  Upon arrival we worked with the front desk to switch our spot from the second of two rows to a water front option, and ended up with fantastic views out our front window and a lovely seating area looking out over the bay.

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In front of our site at Sunset Point RV Park.

The town of Lubec, the easternmost town in the US, is great; picturesque and quaint with a few art galleries and crafty shops, nice little parks, and a brewery.  Lubec Brewing Company, which we found via the Maine Beer Trail, was undergoing extensive renovation during our stay, but the owners insisted on bringing us in and giving us a taste of what they had open, even pouring as a sample directly from one of the big tanks.  In addition to having great beer, they have really interesting design and artwork on their labels and building.  Highly recommended stop if you’re in the area.

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Straight from the vat!

We enjoyed several outings, one of which was south to Machias, a little town with a nice waterfall and another brewery, Machias River Brewing Company.   We are seeing an interesting spectrum of breweries now that we are visiting more of them.  On one end you have the very small “mom and pop” places focusing solely on their beer; they don’t have any outside brews and no food at all.  They tend to be more intimate, and you are likely to meet the actual owner and/or head brewer.  Strong Brewing Company is a nice example of this.

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One of the falls in Machias.

At the other end of the spectrum you have full on restaurant/bars that also happen to have their own brewery, which may not even be on premises.  You get the full treatment of beer and a meal if you are so inclined, and might even have live music if you go on a popular evening.  Machias River is more towards this end of the spectrum.  6-site-rose

You can’t go to the easternmost town in the US and not make a pilgrimage to the actual easternmost point of land, right?  So we included a trip out to West Quoddy Head Lighthouse.  We had a nice tour of their museum and the grounds, though no access to the actual lighthouse top.

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Quoddy Head Lighthouse

The best day trip by far was our outing to Campobello, a Canadian owned island across the Lubec Narrows.  Border control on both sides is used to a daily influx of tourists, and have made it a relatively easy process going in and out.  The island is home to Roosevelt Campobello International Park, a joint venture between Canada and the US.  FDR’s quite wealthy parents purchased land and built a “cottage” here in the late 19th century as the place was becoming a summer retreat for the rich; sort of a Bar Harbor for those that found Bar Harbor not quite exclusive enough.

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Lighthouse on Campobello Island

FDR spent much of his youth on the island, and once he came of age and married Eleanor, his parents purchased the 34 room house nearby, which would become his family’s summer retreat even into his presidency.  The original house was modified to accommodate his wheelchair, secret service, children, and staff.

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FDR’s 34 bedroom “cottage”

In addition to FDR’s summer house we toured other parts of the island, enjoying the coastal views, some light hiking, a bit of geocaching, and some excellent sea glass hunting at a location provided by a local.  Visiting Campobello Island is our top recommendation for anyone in the region: it has history, nature, picturesque views, hiking, biking, and enough of a town that you won’t go hungry should you need a bite and a pint.

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Frog Rock on Campobello Island

As for the sea glass hunting, we had great success in two places, a particular beach on Campobello, and the bay directly accessible from our RV park.  Accessing them both near low tide we found plenty of pieces, some good colors, and a couple of excellent large specimens.

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Seaglass: the bottom of a Sunsweet prune juice bottle from the 1940’s or ’50’s.

Our geocaching was mostly in concert with our trip to Campbello, downtown Lubec, and Machias (as opposed to my occasional dedicated outings.)  Going to a lighthouse?  Find a cache.  A park? Ditto. Beach? Same.  You get the picture.  This doesn’t delay our xploration by much but often takes us to places we might not have otherwise included.  All in all 13 caches of varying difficulty during our three day stay in the area. 12-geocache-lubec

Our perception of Lubec might have been improved by the excellent weather we enjoyed for the length of our stay, but we loved it so much that Rose did some casual property price investigation.  It will most definitely be on our next eastern circuit of the country, and ou should include it on your’s as well. 13-campo-pier

Next up: Canada!

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More Campobello coast

 

 

Back to Ellsworth, Bar Harbor, and our favorite Moose.

We left Meadowbrook and headed about 100 miles up the road to Ellsworth, a mid-sized Down East town on the mainland outside of Bar Harbor.  We really enjoy Coastal Maine in general, the Bar Harbor region in particular, and the Ellsworth Moose lodge specifically.   I have said it on this blog before: of the 28 Moose Lodges we have visited, none matched the welcome we received at Ellsworth.  It made such an impression on us that during our visit last year we transferred our home membership there.  More on the Moose later.

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There would be a lot of this going on during our stay in Ellsworth.

During our first trip here in 2016 we split time between Mount Desert Narrows (until the Passport America rate ran out) and Bar Harbor Campground (a first come, first serve park that got us through the July 4th weekend.)  We enjoyed Mount Desert Narrows enough that in 2017 we splurged on a full month there, a rare occurrence for us outside of Key West.  It was nice, but considering the steep price, even on the monthly rate, we resolved that this year we would stay closer to Ellsworth and pay a bit less, even if we weren’t right on the water.

After research we selected Timberland Acres RV Park, technically just outside Ellsworth in the small town of Trenton.   The office cooperated with our request for “green stuff near our site” and placed us against the tree line with another row of trees on one side.  The site was of moderate size, but the tree lines plus rarely having a neighbor made it seem far more spacious.  It wasn’t cheap: power and water for $38 a night for the first four (off season rate) and $43.50 for the last six, and those rates include a 15% military discount.  It’s all about location and amenities: this park aimed for the resort end of the campground spectrum and is located close to the popular tourist destinations of Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park.

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PKM loving the warm concrete.

I believe we went to the Moose every other day, and always had a great time, but particularly so on Rosemarie’s Birthday.  I had put the word out that if any of the members could make it we would be providing cake.  We had about a dozen people there, and we couldn’t buy our own drinks all evening.  The cake, provided by Shaw’s, was beautiful and delicious as well.  We really look forward to coming back (in two years, we think) and visiting this Moose once they have moved into their new, nearly renovated building.

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Decadence!

During an outing to Airline Brewing Company another couple there introduced us to the Maine Beer Trail, a fold out map and listing of all of the craft breweries in Maine.  Fantastic by itself, but it also offered a challenge: get  dated signature from staff at 10 different breweries, get a free Maine Beer Trail hat, visit 15 get a t-shirt, and visit them all get a secret special prize.  Count us in!  We only wish we had discovered it while we were still in Phippsburg since we hit three breweries in the region and would have been willing to go to more.  We would already be over ten by now! 5-brew-fogtown-flight-2

Oh well, in addition to Airline (great building interior, good food) we found Fogtown (a very hip, youthful vibe) in Ellsworth, and Atlantic (fantastic “Mainely Meats BBQ” on premises) on Bar Harbor.  During a day outing the Beer Trail map led us to Strong Brewing Company in Sedgwick, where we got to meet the actual owners and brewers.  I don’t know how many states have beer map with incentive concept going on, but I highly recommend it.

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The quaint outdoor sitting area at Strong Brewing Company.

Did we Geocache? Of course we geocached, but only a little bit during already planned outings.  No dedicated afternoons searching, just seven or so caches during our stay while out and about.

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Rose and the Deer Isle Bridge during a sea glass hunting expedition.

Rose discovered that Ellsworth had a twice a week farmers market, and after emailing in some information we were invited to participate as drop in vendors for up to two events.  We opted for a single Saturday, and set up on the designated small parking lot on a beautiful sunny day with light winds.  There were only about a dozen total sellers, but we had a steady stream of people and ended up doing very well.  8-market

What could make the day even better?  How about a Shriners Parade?  The Maine Shriners were having their annual convention, which is held at the current Potentate’s (head guy, president, etc) home town, or at least home area.  I don’t recall ever seeing a Shriner’s parade, just a few of the funny little cars included as part of a larger event.  This was all Shriners, and it was far bigger and more complex than I anticipated.  They had dozen’s of different groups of vehicles, a couple of bands, marchers, trucks, clowns, a score of classic and high end convertibles, and more.  Since we had just closed up from our market we had our chairs ready and time enough to set them up in a prime location for the show.  What a great day.

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One of many Shriners entertainment groups, Airline Brewing Company in the background.

That’s it for Ellsworth.  We had made loose plans to go straight to Canada, but a recommendation from Jim had us look at one last Maine local before heading across the border, so that will be our next post.  Oh, and only 12 days behind on the blog now! 10-shriners-1

Maine! Phippsburg, Bath, Boothbay Harbor

Four and a half years of full time RVing through 48 states and 5 Canadian provinces means we get to answer the “what was your favorite place” question a lot.  Aside from our winter home in Key West and other Florida faves, our usual answer is something along the lines of “We can’t narrow it down to one place, but we really loved Nova Scotia, Washington’s Whidbey Island, Idaho’s Salmon River, Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, and Coastal Maine.  Yes, I know, they are all north of The Wall, but we have the advantage of visiting them only during the late spring, summer, and early fall.

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It was definitely campfire weather this stop.  Our spacious site on the edge of the woods.  

These are destination spots for us, and thus no eastern circuit of the US will fail to see us in Maine, and hopefully Nova Scotia and the U.P. as well.  We included all of them in our 2019 route planning, and the first week of June we finally made it back to Meadowbrook Camping Area in Phippsburg, ME.  We first discovered this great park in the woods back in 2016 as merely a place for me to hang while Rose was visiting relatives in Virginia.  But the location, price, amenities (on site lobstah pound!) and general ambiance brought us back in 2018.  We both loved it enough to make it our first stop in the state this year.

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Rose discovered her new favorite drink, Woodchuck’s pear based cider.

During May, June, September, and October they honor the Passport America 50% discount rate, which we means we were paying $24 a day for full hook ups in a spacious site.  The have a pool, free wifi, hiking trails, fishing ponds, a paint ball arena, and more.  Did I mention the on site lobstah pound?  They have that as well, steaming your crustacean or clams to order at a great price.  The lay out of the park offers two sections depending on your preferences: the field with no trees to obstruct your satellite TV, or the wooded hill with every site under a canopy.  We chose the latter.

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Splurged on two for my last lobster meal at Meadowbrook.

Phippsburg itself is tiny, but we found plenty to keep us occupied in the region.  Aside from the three dinners we enjoyed on premises, we also found Bisson’s Center Store, the bodega/convenience store that had the shockingly good pizza last year: order it with extra cheese for a decadent experience.  Bath is just a few miles away with plenty of restaurants, shops, and Bath Brewing that, in addition to excellent pale ale, serves a mean burger with bacon-onion jam.  4-pizza

Boothbay Harbor is only a half hour drive, and we love that area.  We headed there twice during our six day stay, hitting the farmers market, two breweries, and Kaler’s, the restaurant/bar we patronize during every visit.  The market is small, perhaps 15 vendors, but we had a wide variety of choices for cheese, baked goods, and veggies. 5

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We first came to Boothbay Harbor with Linda (while she and Jayson were stationed in Maine) on a cold rainy day years before Rose and I were RVers.  We sought refuge in Kaler’s.  One our fond memories from the region, and we keep coming back. 

Footbridge Brewery had opened within weeks of our arrival, and the crew there were really fun, as well as providing excellent beer.  Boothbay Brewery has one of the coolest building interiors we have seen in a craft brew place, and has really gone out of there way to appeal to RVers: they have five RV sites with hook ups, though they are a bit pricey.

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At the time of our visit, this was Maine’s newest craft brewery.

We incorporated some geocaching into one of our Boothbay trips, and I did a handful more in Bath while Rose manned the laundromat.  The dozen we did this first week of June is more than we did the first four months of the year, so we are starting to really get back into it.  I also have half a dozen or so “trackables” (small trinkets with a registration tag that lets you log them in and see where they have been, which for many is thousands of miles of travel) from Florida that I have now started dropping off in some of these northern locals.  See this post if you have know idea what I am talking about.  7-trackables

OK, still three weeks behind, but that will change after our next post detailing our Triumphant Return to Ellsworth and Bar Harbor.  8-fire-feet

 

53 Months Fulltiming: May 2019 Report

Diligent attention to maintaining this here blog over the last month has resulted in us closing the gap from six weeks behind to just over three.  I hope to report we are completely caught up by the next monthly re-cap.

The Distance:  1,503 as we worked our way over to and up the East Coast all the way to Rhode Island.  I suspect the real mileage is a we bit higher due to our trail and error maneuver to avoid NY, which I could not possibly recreate on google maps   Total for the year has climbed to 2,482 miles, and w are right on track with our 2019 Plan.  July will be another big mileage month for us as well.

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Really moving now!

Places:  We finished our last few days in Wekiwa Springs State Park before hitting our last Florida location, Gilchrist Blue Springs to see cousins.   We truly began our move up the East Coast with three stops near even more friends and family as we passed through Georgia, The Carolinas, and Virginia.  We started with a short stop to see Fred and Donna in Savannah, five days in Wilmington with my Mom and Stepdad, and five more in the Norfolk Region around the ALS walk.  This got us about half way up the country.  We closed out the month with a longer than expected stop in Dover, Delaware and a hard push around NYC to get to Portsmouth and Newport, Rhode Island.

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Me in Gilchrist Blue Springs’ second spring.

We spent the majority of the month, 17 days, in military campgrounds, along with 7 in state parks, 2 in private parks, and 5 with family.  We enjoyed full hook ups for 16 days, partial for 10, and the luxury of a non-moving house for 5.  Aside from the heavily subsidized military campgrounds, we received a 50% Passport-America discount for two nights.

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Team Linda at the ALS Walk.

Budget:  3% under.  Not much, but we will take it.  We were able to counteract the significant increase in our gas expenditures and social costs of visiting family and friends (so many restaurants) with conservative campground fees; our daily park costs for the month averaged a hair over $22.  We also benefited from vending at our first event two months, Bower’s Beach Buccaneer Bash.  We remain under for the year, but expect June to be a budget challenge.

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Implements of destruction and their result. 

The Drama and the Improvements:   Little to report.  I have figured out a method to make our stairs work pretty consistently until we get back to Florida so Mr Mobile RV can replace control unit.  We also are managing an ongoing problem with our rear slide wanting to creep out while driving under certain conditions.  It’s slow, maybe two inches per hour, but it’s annoying.  Rose’s ER visit certainly fits in this paragraph, along with our urgent research to find accommodations after learning of the new “no overnight parking” rule at the Savannah Visitor Center and our stressful efforts to get around New York City.

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Five Days in the Newport, RI at an underrated Navy Campground

Nearly five years into full time RVing and on our third tour of the East Coast, we are focusing on, in addition to seeing family and friends, revisiting those regions and parks we really loved, skipping over those that were merely fine or just don’t work for this itinerary, and hopefully finding some new fantastic stops as well.  This can produce mixed results like it did in Savannah, a place we really enjoy, but with their revised visitor center rules we were forced to seek alternative accommodations.   We had great visits with Mom and Tim in Wilmington and with Linda and family in Chesapeake, where we stayed at our third military campground in as many visits.

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I am not sure we are even supposed to be on this road.

After our longer than expected Delaware stop we needed to pick up the pace to stay on our intended schedule, and so we skipped past New Jersey, Pennsylvania, New York, and Connecticut.  Such skipping was not without drama.  I planned a bit of a westward detour to avoid passing through New York City on I-95 and the egregious toll fee on the Goerge Washington bridge.   Despite my research and intentions our GPS kept trying to reroute us to a cars only parkway, which resulted in several last minute changes, some tight maneuvering in towns west of the Hudson River, and a good amount of stress.  Eventually we found a mostly legal route to the Tappanzee Bridge, and it was all smooth sailing after that.

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But we made it through and it’s all down here from here.

So eight hours into our drive, far longer than our preferred daily run, we finally made it to Carr Point Recreation Area in Portsmouth, managed by the Newport Naval Station across the bay.  A tiny park consisting of only six no frills sites in almost every way: no shower house, no playground, no trees, no concrete pads, no camp host, no wifi, no dump station, no almost anything except power, water, and unobstructed views of the Narraganset Bay a stones throw from every site.  That’s why we come here.

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Driving over the Clairborne Pell Newport Bridge

Unfortunately, this would be a bit of a lazy stop for us: the first day was shot due to the drive, we had a couple of days of foul weather, and started things off with a medical issue.  Rose has been having some upper abdominal pain that we generally attributed to a strain or cartilage inflammation, but it got worse over a couple of months, so we went to the local urgent care.  They were savvy enough to tell us that the type of tests they would need to run would entail going to the hospital, so we might as well just go straight to the ER.  Newport Hospital is not only in our TriCare insurance network, it was also one of the better ER visits either of us had experienced.  We got in quite quickly and with minimal fuss, and received excellent care and attention.  X-Rays and fluid test results revealed mostly normal readings, and the doctor assessed her as having a peptic ulcer.  Medication and diet change has made significant progress already, and here’s to more.

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Rose feeling better for an outing during a break in the rain.

Despite some bad weather we found the time for a few outings, and took advantage of being back on a base to visit the commissary and thrift store.  During a trip to downtown and historic Newport we stumbled across the B&B that we stayed at during a weekend visit from Rose while I was attending school in Newport while we were still dating!  We also did some casual geocaching in the area during breaks in the weather.

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A casual dozen geocaches found during our stay.

We met Roy and Theresa, our neighbors in the campground, and enjoyed a couple of evenings of cocktails and world problem solving conversations.  It turns out both of us are on RVillage, a social networking site specifically for RVers, and we are now keeping up with them as they enjoy a 49 day guided caravan tour of Maine, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Newfoundland.   Since our plans take us to Eastern Canada around the same window, we hope to meet up with them again.

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Front page or our RVillage account.  Other than messages, it allows you to see other Villagers in your campground or those at your future stops. 

Catching up! We are only three weeks behind on the blog now, and will close that gap significantly with a couple of upcoming posts about our wonderful stay in Maine.  image-11

Delaware for longer than anticipated, but who can turn down a pirate festival?

After departing the Norfolk area we crossed the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel, an experience in and of itself with a hefty $34 toll for our rig, and pulled into the family campground on Dover Air Force Base.  We stopped there last year for a couple of days, and remembered it to be quite decent.  Like almost all AFB campgrounds everything is in excellent condition and reasonably priced: we had 50 amp and full hook ups for $20 a night.  Sure, Dover is not exactly on everyone’s must see list, but it worked as a nice stopover after spending five days with family.

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The Dover AFB campground only has 15 serviced sites.

We planned for a two night stay, but then Rose learned of a Buccaneer Bash at nearby Bowers Beach, basically a pirate festival with a lot of people in full historical costume, and they accepted us as vendors, so we ended up staying a full five nights.  It had been ten weeks since our last sales event, which made it almost like starting over as we had to pull out all our racks and equipment and get everything ready.  Rose went gangbusters building our inventory back up and organizing the racks while I, um, supervised.  OK, I had to pull out all the tables, racks, displays, and canopy and load the car, but Rose did the lion’s share of the prep.

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Setting up on day 1

We were rewarded with an excellent result at this two day event, and had a great time doing it.  It is always fun to walk around and see the other vendors and purchase a few items.  For us this is usually food, and we enjoyed a breakfast sandwiches, fries, and craft beer from a local brewery.  This festival had some live music, plenty of cosplayers, and a “pirate camp” devoted to those in full period attire with 18th century and before style tents, producing goods and items in authentic style or at least authentic appearance) and giving demonstrations and reenactments.  We could have done without the periodic cannon fire, though.  img_20190526_123016

Despite brisk sales, we had to cut the first day short when the wind picked up considerably and threatened not just our racks but the entire canopy despite our tent weights.  Day two had considerably better weather but slower sales; it seemed like a third of the vendors didn’t bother coming for the second day. img_20190525_125144

We also visited the local Moose Lodge, Camden-Wyoming #203, for a drink on our last day in town.  This Moose is likely the second most welcoming (nothing will ever top our Ellsworth home lodge) of the 26 we have visited.  In addition to one of the generous members covering our first round, they gave us a license tag to take to our home lodge, and were generally interested in our travels and glad that we stopped in.  Of interest for the next time we get to Delaware: I asked the handful of members if there was something that they considered a specific regional food.  After some internal discussion, they came back with scrapple.  Yes, scrapple.

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All the Moose’s we have visited

We got to see a bit of drama during our stay in the park.  One of the campers, staying in on of those Class B camper vans, left his spot to run some errands, meaning he took the van since it was his only transportation.  While he was out, another camper in a big Class A with no reservations pulled into his spot, having failed to check with the front office about availability or check the board with posted reservations.  When van guy returned, Class A guy refused to give him back his spot!  The cops came, and after about an hour and apparently several phone calls, Class A guy was forced to move, and nearly kicked out of the entire campground.  Bizarre.  We actually ran into van guy at the festival, he had a sense of humor about it and gave us the full blow by blow.  image-2

Our only regret about our Delaware stop was not being able to see Stan and Marilyn, who were out of town during out stay.  Next time, guys! As for bringing the blog up to date: I was on a real streak for a while with 8 posts in 11 days, only to get lazy with a 9 day lapse.  With this and yesterday’s post, we are getting back on track, though still nearly four weeks behind. 7-sunset

 

Up to the Norfolk area for more family visits and an annual ALS fundraiser walk.

ALS, commonly known as Lou Gehrig’s disease, is the worstThose afflicted maintain all of their intellectual capability and senses as they observe their own body betraying them, relentlessly shutting down, system by system.  Over the course of a couple of years  they loose the ability to walk, then talk, then eat, then breath.  Along the way their family becomes ever more stressed by the ever increasing demands on them, physically and emotionally, as caretakers.  1-linda-jayson

And yet you see the heroic, and I do not use that world lightly, strength in both those with the disease and those caring for them.  The family that raised the most money and had the biggest representation at this particular Hampton Roads fundraising walk had already lost their loved one to ALS years before, and yet here they were, walking in his memory and in the hope of a cure for those still fighting.  The primary speaker, an elementary school teacher diagnosed before she was 30, spoke with hope, optimism, humor, and fearlessness to kick off the event.  2-eli-and-jude

This is supposed to be about hope and love, but I want to hit at something else, something that perhaps we have all encountered or struggled with: where does the support flow from and to in situations of tragedy?  I am not a Christian.  I don’t hold out hope for an afterlife.  But I have the greatest respect for certain Christian writers who have had significant effect on my perspectives and opinions. 4-rose

Specifically, Fred Clarke, writing at Patheos, nailed something important in his post on this subject: support flows inward.  Imagine a set of concentric circles, like a target, with the actual victim at the center, her immediate family in the first ring, her closest friends and other family in the next ring, etc and outward.  From where and to where does the support flow?  It must flow inward.  To the victim, to her family. No one should expect the victim or her family to provide you, somewhere on the outside, with some sort of support, or even thanks for you support.  It is not about you, it is about them.  5-linda-and-jayson

Enough of that.  We had a great visit; it’s always great to hang out with Linda’s big and growing family.  All three of her boys, Chris, Junior, and Nathaniel, are still in the Norfolk area, though Chris is soon to transfer to Illinois.  Between them Linda now has ten grandchildren, which certainly makes for an interesting house when a group of them come over.  The walk itself was a great and successful event.  Linda’s friends and family came from near and far to show support, and Amy, Chris’ wife, sang the national anthem.  Though we may be a bit biased, she did so a beautiful job.

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House of Chaos

As for the usual: we stayed one night at Twin Lakes RV Resort on the way to Norfolk. It was a perfectly serviceable park on the Passport-America list that provided full hook ups and a pull through site for $30.  We then stayed five nights at the Little Creek Joint Expeditionary Base Campground, one of five military parks in the area.  Of the three at which we have stayed, this is so far our top choice.  6-back-roads-to-va

If you are of a mind to donate to ALS research, treatment, and palliative care, you have many options: Team Linda is one of them. 7-the-walk-crew

On to Wilmington, NC for Mother’s Day

We left Savannah better informed about the RV situation there, and with two solid options for staying there in the future, and headed North towards Wilmington.  In keeping with our drive distance preferences we made a one night stop just before the North Carolina boarder on I-95.  I played with the idea of staying at the RV park associated with the South of the Border theme park, but thought it might be too noisy and filled with rowdy kids hyped up on cotton candy and adrenaline, so we opted for Bass Lake RV Park, a Passport-America participant.  It was ideal for a one nighter: quite, full hook ups, and a pull through site for $20.

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Yes, that is the South of the Border water tower, and it is indeed designed to look like a sombrero.

The next morning we dropped Serenity off at Jack’s RV Storage, the same place we left him last year.  The place is really a granite counter top specialist, but the owner, who lives on site, runs several side business off his property, including boat and RV storage.  It’s cheap, secure, and situated close enough to Wilmington to be convenient for our needs.

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That sub heading under the Welcome to North Carolina sign: “Nations most military friendly state” is an easy claim to make, can you back it up?

Our timing this trip is working out quite well; we arrived in Wilmington the day before Mother’s Day and stayed for five days of work and play with Mom and Tim.    Wilmington took a direct hit from Hurricane Florence in September of last year, and like many other residents, they are still in the process of getting there house back in shape, a process made even more urgent by their desire to put the house on the market.

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Stone crab claws, quiche, fruit, cheese, prosecco, and acacia honey for Mother’s Day brunch.  If you have not had Acacia honey, do yourself a favor and try it. You won’t go back.

So in between outings to farmers markets, restaurants, wine tastings, and music lessons we pitched in where we could, making minor repairs and helping with the removal of a lot of vines overgrowing into the tree line in the back yard.  We made a lot of progress, though they still have some work for actual professionals to do before the place is 100%.

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Wielding various implements of destruction, we made huge inroads into taking down the vast array of vines strangling the trees between Mom and Tim’s house and the neighbor’s.

After discovering the wine tasting event at Sweet and Savory last year, it will be a priority for our visits to Wilmington.  This time around they paired five wines with five modest dishes, and so as not to be too glutinous, the four of us shared two orders of this special.  Almost everything was fantastic, and with the associated wine sale we left full and toting a couple of bottles as well.

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I have honestly never seen this before.  So apparently NC can make the boast with at least this bit of evidence.  To be honest, I am not sure why this should be a thing any more than “First Responders’, Nurses’, or Teachers'” reserved parking.

Perhaps the highlight of our visit was the music lessons Tim provided both of us.  Having purchased Rosemarie’s ukulele we had not made much headway on our own, but under Tim’s guidance we made significant progress!  As much as learning some basic chords and being able to switch between them, it was the assistance in strumming that we both really needed.

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Rex does not wish to play tug-o-war, but is just a bit suspicious about handing me his favorite stuffed toy to throw for fetch.

Next up: Norfolk region of Virginia.  Only 26 days behind on the blog now, catching up!