West to Quebec City

In accordance with our plan, it was time to head west: we had obligations in Michigan as early as August 3, and we didn’t want to have to rush our journey.  We struck out from Shediac and broke up our journey with Walmart overnighter in Edmonston, New Brunswick.  I think this is the same one we stayed in last year during our trip to Quebec.  We didn’t have quite as many RV neighbors this time, but a handful of other units joined us before nightfall.  1-walmart

And also like last year we again stayed at Camping la Relache (something like “Relaxation Camping” or “Camping to Relax”) due to its easy proximity to the city, late notice availability during a weekend at a popular destination.  At just under $46 USD a day it has been our most expensive Canadian RV park, easily topping Inverness Beach Village’s $38 a night.  We had 50 amp full hook ups with helpful and informative owners, but we might try something different if we find ourselves back in Quebec during a future year. 2-field-flowers

On the advice of the park owners the next day we drove along the river to the ferry terminal, helped along by a local couple that watched us turn into the wrong place and then followed us to make sure we got it right.  For $8 in parking and then $11 ferry fee we could be dropped off across the river right in the historic district without having to worry about city driving or parking. 3-rose-ferry

Our top priority was to find the farmers market we had so thoroughly enjoyed last time around.  Alas, the market was no longer in the former downtown location; we would later learn it had moved to a bigger venue a few clicks north.  We satisfied ourselves with a walk around the historic area, a light meal at an Thai/Vietnamese restaurant (somewhat disappointing) and a drink at a bar (also rather uninspiring.) 4-city

Finally, feeling like we had loosened our purse strings far more than last year and been rewarded with nothing special, we stumbled into the Borgia Pub for a drink and lively conversation with the wait staff and fellow tourists.  So we closed out our afternoon in the city on a positive note and caught the next ferry back across the river.


Rose was excited to find one of her favorite beers available here since not many places carry Grolsch.  If you look closely at the label, however, this version had a noticeable problem.

For our final day we made the drive to the farmers market’s new location in a brand new facility that felt a lot like a mall.  We didn’t find the spectacular salami vendor from last year, but I had my eagerly anticipated fried cheese squares, we purchased some fresh leafy greens, and a bottle of mead that goes down remarkably close to a beer.


Yeah, I don’t know either.

I don’t have much to say about this Quebec City visit.  We probably should have done more research, but it just felt a bit disappointing, to be honest.  I will say that any fears you have about the language barrier are largely unfounded.  We never had a problem, and we never got any attitude for speaking English.  Just open with a bonjour (morning or day) or bonsoir (evening or night) and then go from there.  I am told that 20 years ago things were more challenging, but nowadays everyone seems to just make an effort.  7-umbrellas

Next up: we make a major change to the 2019 plan with a race back to the states for a special event. 8-ivy-fountain


Back to Tata, then on to Shediac, New Brunswick.

After leaving Inverness, we had roughly three weeks to get to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula for one of our somewhat rare actually planned date and location requirements.  Plenty of time, plenty of options, and based on the recommendation of some well traveled Canucks, we decided to aim for Shediac, New Brunswick along the way.  This is  yet another picturesque and somewhat touristy coastal town promising great seafood and plenty of pictures.


PKM is remarkably trusting and tolerant.  She didn’t overly object to being placed on a rock surrounded by water…

But first we had to work our way out of Nova Scotia, and since we love the damn place we used our “we don’t like to drive more than four hours a day in the RV” excuse to make yet another stop in Tatamagouche.  Just two days this time, but long enough to visit the farmers market (as buyers only) and enjoy a fun weekend in our favorite Canadian party RV resort.  And yes, because the regulars are starting to remember us, we sold a bit of jewelry over the weekend as well.


… though it did exhaust her.

At this point we had sampled the wares from 14 Nova Scotia breweries, distilleries, vineyards, and cideries participating in The Good Cheer Trail.  The requirement for a free t-shirt was 15.  So naturally we incorporated Triders Craft Beer into our route towards New Brunswick being that it was only about five minutes out of the way.  Imagine our disappointment when we arrived only to find them closed: I had not paid sufficient attention to their business hours when planning the trip.  Ah well.


Rose’s new favorite, from Tatamagouche Brewing.

We continued along our short drive into New Brunswick and Parlee Beach Provincial Park.  It’s weird to me, as a Floridian, to think of Canadian’s going to beaches.  From my parochial perspective I have trouble seeing it.  Do they take their ice skates?  Snow mobiles?  Are they immune to the cold?  The reality is that the gulf stream effects make the waters in numerous parts of eastern coastal Canada quite tolerable, and certainly warmer than a lot of California’s beaches.  Parts of Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island advertise their beaches as “the warmest north of the Carolinas.”  So there’s that.  4-drive-nb

Anyway, Parlee Beach is a nice park, and Shediac is a nice town, but we, at this point, had our fill of touristy coastal places like this.  So we spent the majority of our outings more inland, hitting a couple of breweries in Dieppe, starting with CAVOK Brewing Company, located next to the local airport.  It was founded by a couple of retired air traffic controllers, thus the name (pilot speak indicating visibility is at least 10 KM and there are no clouds below 5000 feet, i.e., Ceiling And Visibility OK.) 5-brew-cavot

We really enjoyed this place.  In addition to a great beer flight, the bartender gave us a history lesson on the Acadian people (French settlers) and their Great Expulsion from Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island in the mid 18th century.  The short version is that during the Seven Year War (England vs France, round 28 or so) which spilled over into the New World as the French and Indian War, the English Governors and generals forcibly expelled about 80% of the Acadians south into the British colonies that would eventually become the US.  They did so without regard to those that were trying to remain neutral vs those that were likely assisting French forces.


HUGE slices from Jack’s Pizza in Shediac.

The French pronunciation of Acadian is roughly “Acajun.”  See where I am going with this?  Yeah, the Cajuns in Louisiana came to live there due to the Great Expulsion.  I did not know this.  See the benefits of visiting breweries?  This is why you have distinctly North American connections between Quebec and New Orleans, particularly in the culinary department, e.g., boudin and poutine. 7-shediac-harbor

We also hit Flying Boats Brewing, a great place with some fantastic beer and an informative staff.  During our flight they started up an interesting tour of the facility with lessons and Q&A on their process.  This is the first place since Tatamagouche that we have refilled our growler.  8-brew-flying-boats

Oh, you wish to know why it is called Flying Boats?  You want another history lesson?  Of course: southeast New Brunswick is geographically about as close to England as you can get while still in industrialized North America.  In the 1930’s, during the era when commercial air travel was rapidly expanding, one of the financial/engineering considerations revolved around the idea that if you have a protected bay you don’t need to build an expensive airport runway structure.  Thus, during this period, Shediac became a major air travel hub between the US and England.  The well heeled could fly from New York to New Brunswick, then on to Newfoundland, then the long leg to Ireland followed by a short hop to Southampton.  There you have it. 9-shediac-buoys

While in Dieppe we also swung into Celtic Knot Brewing before returning to Shediac.  They don’t have a tasting room, so we satisfied ourselves with the purchase of a 500 ml IPA (I think.)


A gift from my son: custom designed insulated coffee mug.

We had one last day in Shediac, and no desire to play tourist or dine on pricey lobster and seafood.  What to do?  I’ll tell you what to do: get that 15th Good Cheer Trail stamp by driving the 45 minutes back into Nova Scotia and the now open Trider’s Craft Beer.  Which we did, and had an excellent flight at our final Nova Scotia brewery until we get back into the region in 2021, at the earliest.


Got our 15 at Trider’s!

Next post: Quebec.

Up to Cape Breton and Inverness for sea glass hunting and much more

The Northwestern portion of Nova Scotia is an island separated from the mainland by a short straight, and has it’s own particular personality sometimes distinct from the rest of the province in the same way that Michigan’s Upper Peninsula feels like it’s own state.  We found that in Cape Breton you really get the “Scotia” part of New Scotland.  Whereas in many other parts of Canada you will find road signs in both English and French, in The Cape you see them in English and Gaelic, and traditional Scottish entertainment and music is robustly advertised.


The bridge to Cape Breton.

We spent a few days in Inverness last year, primarily to hunt for the extraordinary amount of sea glass washed ashore on a particular few miles of beach there, but we did little to explore the region beyond that.  This year we booked six days at the same campground, Inverness Beach Village, but vowed to do more than just find glass.


One of many picturesque coastal towns on The Cape.

The campground is nothing special; just a lightly terraced grass field amidst the business’ primary money maker, a bunch of small vacation cottages.  For $38 USD a day you get nothing but a 15 amp standard connection and water.  Fortunately it was not particularly warm during our stay, so no need to blow the circuit breaker attempting to run an AC.  The reason we stay there, as opposed to say, the fully serviced MacLeod’s a few miles up the road, is that Inverness Beach is where all the sea glass comes ashore, and you have direct access to it from the campground.


The evening view from our site at Inverness Beach Village Campground.

And so almost every day of our stay we were down there on the shore, walking a mile or two up the beach gathering pocket fulls of glass, mostly white and green, with an occasional interesting blue.  Our supply of the stuff had diminished greatly due to the amount we sold as pendants at various markets during the past year.  We are pretty well stocked now though!


A small part of our haul from the beach.

Just like in Tatamagouche, we located a weekly farmers market, contacted the manager, and were enthusiastically invited to attend as vendors.  We did reasonably well at this short afternoon event, and enjoyed not just our sales, but also, as always, our interaction with the locals and the gift of their recommendations.


Part of our hike along the coast.

As stated earlier, this time we wanted more out of The Cape than just glass.  So we let three things guide us to new experiences: Geocaching, The Good Cheer Trail, and the Cabot Trail, with may overlapping things between them.  On the geocaching front, I or we did a number of them in town, helped revamp an old cache thought lost, and did a bit of off-roading in Loki to get to a few along the ATV trails.


We hiked down this spit to get to a geocache.

The best of them all, however, was a bumpy grind up some very shaky dirt and rock roads, followed by a five mile round trip hike along absolutely stunning ocean side cliffs.  We snagged a few caches along the route, with the turn around point providing us a fantastic remote earth cache where a stream pours into the sea.


Had to jump the creek to get to one of the caches.

Right in Inverness The Good Cheer Trail map led us to the nearly new Route 19 Brewing for a flight and light meal.  During our trip around the Cabot Trail we also hit Big Spruce Brewing Company, whose Kitchen Party Pale Ale is one of my new absolute favorites, though I fear it will be quite difficult to find once out of Nova Scotia.  We stopped into Breton Brewing Company as well, but a recent death had their tasting room closed for a wake, though the were kind enough to offer to stamp our Good Cheer passport book.


I think we had more than one flight here, but the Kitchen Party Pale Ale was the best of the bunch for me.

As for the Cabot Trail: this is a full day affair.  Though the mileage seems like it should only take a few hours, the speed limit is frequently in the 30’s and the number of stops you will want to make along the way will vastly expand the time (so many beautiful vistas, so many cliffs, so many lagoons and bays.)  A significant portion of the drive is through the Cape Breton Highlands National Park, so you will need to purchase a pass at one of the entrances.


One of many bays and beaches easily accessible along the Cabot Trail.

Here is our number one recommendation for doing the Cabot Trail: break it into two parts.  Secure a reservation at one of the many inns or hotels at your route’s half way point.  Take your time exploring the national park, don’t exhaust yourself (like we did) but rather pause for the evening and enjoy a glass of wine and a good meal in an excellent environment.  Wake up refreshed for more stunning views.  We really wish we had heard this advice before our circuit of the trail.


Did I mention that we took the top down for our Cabot Trail drive? We did, and it was fantastic.

Don’t get me wrong, we thoroughly enjoyed the Cabot Trail.  I don’t think the pictures here can really do it justice.  I recommend doing it counterclockwise so that you are always on the outside of the road overlooking the ocean.  Others feel that clockwise is a better option, particularly if you are doing it in one day, because the majority of the spectacular views would then come at the beginning of the trip when you are fresh, rather than the end when you are just ready to get home.  11-ct-5

Between our two visits here we don’t feel like we have had the best restaurant experiences in Inverness.  The batter on the fish and chips was a bit thick, the donair just ok, and the service hurried.  But our last full day this trip we stopped into The Cabot Public House and had the best mussels we have ever had.  Served in a Thai sauce with bread, it was fantastic, and a fitting coda to our stay.  12-ct-7

During one of our sea glass walks along the beach we spotted a bald eagle in a tree on the cliff about 40 feet above us.  He let us get quite close, but as luck would have it, neither of us had our phones or a camera.  This is very frustrating since, like 95 percent of the population, we care our phones with us 95 percent of the time.  On a hope and a prayer we decided to go out at the exact same time the next day to the same spot, and sure enough the eagle came back, landed in the same tree, and let us take a few pictures before departing 15 minutes later.  Incidentally, I am willing to return to Canada 100 Canadian geese for each Bald Eagle the send to us.  13-eagle

Our sea glass collection restocked, our Good Cheer Trail passport nearing to the point where we get a free t-shirt, and our camera full of great coastline pictures, it was time to leave Cape Breton.  There are areas of Nova Scotia we have yet to explore, but we are quite confident that any future trips to the province must include The Cape.


Cliff side, on the way to some geocaches.

Next up: working our way west out of Nova Scotia and through New Brunswick and Quebec.  15-ct-1

Back to Tatamagouche, one of our favorite towns from our 2018 tour.

Last year we needed a stopping point on our way to Inverness, Nova Scotia after a bit of hard driving, and Tatamagouche fit the bill nicely with a bay side campground, Sunset Watch, a few miles outside town.  We really fell in love with the place, by which I mean the trifecta of Nova Scotia, Tatamagouche, and Sunset Watch Campground.  Our four day exploration of the area yielded such pleasure that we vowed Tata would be a priority during our next tour through Eastern Canada. 1-driving-with-cat

And so we returned, this time intent on at least a six day stay, and in a rare bit of actual planning for us, timed our visit to overlap Canada Day and the expected activities that both the town and the weekend, party-oriented campground would provide.  Not gonna lie: we anticipated selling some jewelry in the campground itself during the holiday weekend.  (We were not disappointed.) 2-tata-sign

We also contacted Tatamagouche’s farmers market manager who enthusiastically invited us to attend as vendors for both the Saturday event and the special Canada Day market as well!  We did quite well on the regular market, and so-so on the special event due to weather and low turn out, but it was all clearly worth it and an enjoyable experience to boot. 3-sunset

Dave, one of the park owners, encouraged us to extend our stay through the next weekend because they were planning an even bigger campground-wide bash as a “mortgage burning party.”  As we began to accept that including Newfoundland into our itinerary was really pushing our schedule, we decided to abandoned that plan, which gave us some slack in the general timeline, and eagerly extended our stay in Tatamagouche for a total of nine days.  Dave is, I believe, the single most active park owner/manager I have ever seen, constantly roaming the park, asking how things are, and making arrangements.  The park has excellent services, even a free once a week honey dipper truck to empty your black and grey tanks.4-rose-campground

Aside from markets, we took several day trips through the region, partially guided by our Good Cheer Trail beer/distillery/vineyard list.  To the west, in nearby Malagash, we returned to Jost Vineyards for some tasty white wine samples, and to Bella Vista Cidery for some very interesting ciders.  To the east we hit Caldera Distillery in River John, Backstage Brewing in Stellarton and Uncle Leo’s Brewing in yet another picturesque coastal town, Pictou.  And of course, several visits to Tatamgouche Brewing Company, where we bought our first growler ever, and even made a jewelry sale to someone who noticed Rose’s earrings.5-brewery

It wasn’t all drinking and partying, we had a few other fun activities in there as well.  Such as our visit to the “home” of Mable Murple, the title character of a famous illustrated poem by Sharee Fitch, who might be described as a modern Canadian Dr Seuss.  We stumbled across this place while passing through River John, and noticed some sort of big event going on.  Pulling in we found that Mable Murple’s was hosting a children’s book fair as part of their Read by the Sea celebration.  6-mable-murple

We returned to Pictou near the end of our visit for the annual Lobster Carnival.  We assumed this would be a festival celebrating lobster, and that lobster would be everywhere.  Lobster rolls, boils, fried on stick, bisque, on a salad, as a pizza topping!  This was not the case.  It was a fairly typical carnival with lots of rides, carnies, and music.  A bit disappointing, but we had made assumptions without research.


This lobster roll looks great, but it was a bit rubbery.  We had way better meals at Tatamagouche’s Chowder House (fish and chips) and Dexter’s ($5 Sandwiches to go.)

Dave’s mortgage burning party, however, did not disappoint.  He had three bands playing from late afternoon until well after dark, gave out free drink tickets, hosted games, and even made an announcement that “the lady from Florida is selling jewelry at site 2-17” which resulted in several sales.  We really closed out our Tatamagouche stay well with a third downtown market and campground sales to boot. 8-jack-cat-shoreline

We loved out time in Tata, but our reservations were made for Inverness, so it was time to move on.  Since Newfoundland was no longer in the cards, we would be passing back through Tata, or at least nearby, on our way out of Nova Scotia, and went ahead and arranged with Dave for a two day stay back at Sunset Watch the next weekend.


The Train Inn and Restaurant, all within a couple of old dining cars and cabooses.

Next up: Inverness, but this time with more than just sea glass hunting.


Taking a break at the Seafoam Lavender Farm.



54 Months Fulltiming: June 2019 Report

Obviously from the date you can tell we are down to only 17 days behind on the blog.  That translates to two locations we have visited and not yet written up, so pretty good progress.  ellsworth-bridge

The Distance:  Another big mileage month for us, 1078 miles.  We left Rhode Island for Maine, doing three coastal towns there before crossing the border into Canada.  We passed through New Brunswick into Nova Scotia, bouncing around three different locations in that province.  We are up to 3,560 miles for the year as we continue to follow the major elements of our our 2019 Planjune-2019-route-map

Places:  We started the month with a six day stay in Maine at one of our favorites, Meadowbrook Camping Area in Phippsburg before returning to our home Moose Lodge location in Ellsworth outside of Bar Harbor.  We made one final stop in the US, Lubec, Maine, before beginning our Canada adventures.  This included two consecutive Walmart stops on the way to our four day stay at Kejimkujik National Park.  We followed that with a short stop in Lunenburg before returning to one of our favorite places from last year, Tatamagouche (write up forthcoming, most of that stay was in July.) lunenburg-distillery

We stayed mostly in private RV parks (24 days) with four days in a national park and 2 in Walmart parking lots.  We had full hook ups for 8 days, partial (power or power and water) for 20 and drycamped for 2.  We recieved the 50% Passport America rate for six nights, a 15% military discount for ten, and a weekly rate discount (about 14%) for three. keji

Budget:  Like last month we snuck under the budget again, 4% this time  Another big gas month, particularly expensive because of the Canadian fuel prices (after exchange rate, about $3.25 a gallon.)  Our camping fees averaged $32 a night, higher than we usually prefer, largely due to the very popular areas we selected as they came into peak season.  We didn’t exactly put ourselves on an entertainment austerity plan either, but we were able to counteract these expenditures with two successful markets, without which we would have been over budget.  boothbay-brew

The Drama and the Improvements:   Everything has been pretty smooth.  Loki’s battery will need replacing soon: it starts him up but leaving the lights on with the engine off for even 15 minutes seems to drain it.   Our biggest drama was the entire bike rack breaking loose and falling off in Kejimkujik National Park.  lubec-art

A short stop in Lunenburg

Though we usually like to keep our schedule flexible, we had pretty firm plans to be in Tatamagouche by the coming Friday, which left us with a two day window to make a short exploration of another part of Nova Scotia.  We narrowed it down to Lunenburg and Peggy’s Cove, two high profile tourist areas on the coast.  After checking the caravan itinerary of our new friends Roy and Theresa, whom we had met in Newport, and seeing that they were in Lunenburg, the decision became easy.


One of many picturesque spots in downtown Lunenburg.

Roy and Theresa are on a 49 day guided caravan tour of the the eastern provinces.  These sorts of things involve paying a set, nearly all inclusive fee, with the organizers defining the route, making all reservations, and coordinating most of the activities in each location.  The number of rigs participating (over 20) meant that the municipal park right in Lunenburg was completely booked, so we made reservations at Little Lake Family Campground just a few miles outside town.  It seemed a little pricey by Canadian standards, but it was a nice place with very friendly owners in a key location, so paying $39.50 (USD) a night for a fully serviced site is not too bad.  2-saltbox-brewery

We arrived mid afternoon in the rain, and as the weather showed little sign of abating we mostly stayed inside the first day.  Things were better on day 2, and we were able to meet up with Roy and Theresa at Saltbox Brewery in nearby Mahone Bay.  We had a great couple of hours catching up over a couple of pints.  They are truly “our kind of people,” and hope that our travels put us back together many times in the future. 3-roy-theresa

We also owe them for introducing us to Nova Scotia’s Good Cheer Trail, very similar to the beer and distillery program we stumbled into in Maine.  Essentially, a “passport” with a region by region list of all of the participating Nova Scotia breweries, distilleries, cider houses, and vineyards, with a spot for a stamp at each one you visit, and the promise of a Good Cheer t-shirt if you go to 15.  Game on!  The Good Cheer Trail would turn out to have a big influence on the direction of our daily outings for the rest of our time in the province.  4-downtown-art-loki

We had just on afternoon to explore the town, so we made the best of it.  First, a geocache took us to the Lunenburg Academy, an impressive structure holding both historical and architectural significance.  Built between 1893 and 1895, it still functions as a school for primary age kids, but also as the local library.  The geocache took us to a clue outside of the building, and the clue led us inside to a specific book.  Neat! 5-old-school-now-library

We headed downtown to enjoy the harbor, gift shops, and galleries.  At one of which, Coastal Reflections, we discovered some incredible jewelry at surprisingly affordable prices.  Since our anniversary was quite close, we splurged for this one of a kind bracelet “Triton’s Domain” by the artist Marina Smith.  Stunning! 6-bracelet

And wouldn’t you know it, Lunenburg had not one but two stops on the Good Cheer Trail!  We had a flight at Shipwright Brewing Company, a tiny little place attached to a larger restaurant.  Good beer, and a friendly server who provided some recommendations for other spots to hit once he learned our our travel direction.  Then it was on to Ironworks Distillery for some samples of rum, gin, and liqueur and a peak at their impressive equipment.  Oh, and they had a geocache inside as well, so bonus. 7-distillery-2

That’s it, we only had two days and only one with decent weather.  Lunenburg is not a big town, but another day would have been worthwhile to more fully explore some of the nearby areas, but as mentioned at the top, we had plans to return to Tatamagouche, one of our favorite towns from last year.


Only had time for a few of them.

First 2019 stops in Canada: Walmarts and Kejimkujik National Park

Last year we started our Canada run with one short stop in New Brunswick, the first province you hit coming out of Maine, followed by two excellent locations in Nova Scotia which we loved enough to make sure they would be on our list of return spots.  Having so thoroughly enjoyed both Tatamagouche and Inverness, we assumed there must be any number of other places in Nova Scotia that would be right for us, and researched accordingly.  One of the top internet recommendations was Kejimkujick National Park, located in a region of NS we had yet to explore.  We put it on our priority list, and based upon our other date specific plans in late June and early July it made sense to hit Keji as our first Canadian destination.


Just cleared at the border.

But we had to get there first, and given our preferred daily drive time in the big RV, we elected to make two consecutive Walmart parking lot overnight stops in route.  I suspect a good number of non-RVers find this concept rather odd, as if we are on the verge of homelessness when parking lot camping, but keep in mind we have our entire home with us.  This means we have our own bathroom and shower, our own fully equipped kitchen, our own bed, and more.


PKM not sure she approves of this Canadian travel.

We have “lot camped” more than a score of times in our 4 1/2 years of RVing, and have never had a problem.  Heck, counting from last year we have stayed in four Canadian Walmarts and that’s with less than two months total in this country.  The All Stays website can be sorted to show only big box parking lots along with which ones allow overnight stays and which do not.  We can pull into a big lot, whether it be Walmart, Home Depot, Cabela’s, or Cracker Barrel (some of the most common establishments that allow overnight RV parking,) position ourselves on the outer boundary, open up slides on the non-parking lot side, run our generator for a bit if needed, and spend an easy and free night.  Many of them are situated close to interstates or other major arteries, so they are often quite convenient.3-lot

On our route to Nova Scotia we stopped in Sussex, New Brunswick, then Truro, Nova Scotia.  We stocked up on supplies, made a minor repair to Loki (headlight bulb replacement), and spent a lot of time indoors on the laptop or watching downloaded Netflix shows since we had hours of light drizzle and rain for both stops.  During breaks I did some geocaching in both locations, sometimes just to get out of the RV for a bit. 4-ns-visitor-center

We made the last leg of our run to Kejimkujik having secured a four day reservation at Jeremy’s Bay campground, the only option in the park for RVs.  They have a couple of hundred sites, but only a portion of them are serviced, so you have to pay attention during the reservation process.   Weekends during the summer can be tough, but we kept checking for cancellations and found our four days starting on a Saturday.  5-rose

A camping reservation at Canadian National Parks does not include the actual park pass fee; you make that payment separately upon arrival.  It increases your daily camping fee quite a lot, but even with the added cost we were paying about $33 (USD) a night, all in.  We recommend having a good idea of your plans for the rest of your Canadian tour, i.e., if will you be hitting any other national parks.  That way you can properly assess if you should get a daily pass for the park, an annual pass for the park, or an annual pass for all of their national parks (about $105 USD at the current exchange rate.)  6-canoe-lake

We, of course, did not have this level of planning and thus opted for the daily pass.  Had we stayed one day longer, an annual pass for just Kejimkujik would have been better, and since leaving Keji, we have already stumbled across another national park and paid a one day admission fee.  The amount we have spent is a little short of halfway to the price for two annual passes to all of the Canadian national parks, so if we hit a few more, especially if it includes a few days of camping, it may turn out that we made the wrong decision. Oh well. 7-falls

So, Kejimkujik: we had a good time despite a moderate amount of drizzle and rain.  Our site was located in a fully wooded area with medium tree canopy over every spot, which is exactly how we like it.  This made it beautiful and shaded, though the temperatures probably would not have required A/C use anyway, which was good because we did not have a fully working electrical post for the first two days.  12-pitcher-plant

I assessed, correctly it would turn out, that the 30 amp breaker was bad, and unfortunately the park’s maintenance electrician was off duty.  They offered us the option of switching sites, but we had already fully set up, and the regular 15 amp plug in would be fine to charge our batteries and run most of our stuff if we were careful.  RV Pro-Tip: you should carry adapters to convert your main shore power cable to all options, 50, 30, and 15 amp.  They had us fully up and running first thing on day three.


Our wooded site.

Another lesson learned: the serviced sites are electric only, but they do have a large multi-lane dump and fill station.  Unfortunately, all of the fill stations assumed RVs with a gravity fed, top fill option; none of the stations had a threaded connection for those like our rigs that require it.  We have been doing this RV thing long enough such that we are in the habit of leaving all of our parks with a full water tank and empty black (sewage) and grey (shower and sinks) tanks, so despite having already dry camped for two nights we would be fine, but it was still a surprise.  9-us-canoe

While sorting out the electrical issue, which entailed driving back and forth between our site and the camping registration office, we experienced a bit more drama: the bicycle rack mounted to our spare tire on Loki’s tail gate fell off, with both bikes attached.  The mounting plate completely failed, dumping the set onto the road, substantially bending the back rim on my bike.  We are lucky this did not occur at speed on a main road!  I was (barely) able to ride the wobbly bike back to camp, brake rubbing and derailer clicking the whole way.  I am no longer a fan of the spare tire mounting system.  Hopefully Thule will provide us a refund.  img_20190622_171820

The weather meant we were unable to take full advantage of our stay, particularly the apparently spectacular star gazing this dark sky area can provide, but we made the best of it.  We explored several recommended areas by car and foot and did some geocaching both in the park and the nearby small towns.  On our last full day we rented a canoe for an afternoon on the rivers and one of the big lakes, which yielded some close up encounters with five or so doe and fawns.


There’s a deer in there.

On our final night we had clear enough skies to enjoy a nice bit of stargazing, but would have really enjoyed one of the dedicated night time guided explanations in the designated observation circle nearby.  Our timing was not right for that, so perhaps on a future stay.   Also, we did not make it over to the coast to see the Kejimkujik seashore annex, and learned shortly after we left that park officials had closed it for excessive bear activity.


16 Geocaches during our stay.

Blog status: After a flurry of ten posts in June we got Shell On Wheels blog to under three weeks out of date.  A lackadaisical two posts during the first ten days of July, however, dropped us back a bit, but with this post so quickly following our Lubec one, we are back under three weeks behind.  Getting close! 13-lake-reflection





Another fantastic little Maine town: Lubec

While we have generally followed our 2019 route plan, the great thing about our style of RVing is the flexibility to change it on short notice if something fun or interesting comes up.  We make very few reservations more than a week in advance of our travels with the exception of very difficult to secure places, such as Key West, Bahia Honda, and Gilchrist Blue Springs.  We find that once we arrive in a state and meet locals, they have all kinds of recommendations for other spots within their state we should visit.  If we had a hard itinerary, it would be far more difficult to include such stops.


PKM appreciates the shorter trips between sites.

And so having enjoyed our stay in the Ellsworth-Bar Harbor area with the intentions of  heading directly to Canada upon departure, we changed things up after receiving a recommendation from RV friend Jim, who we met way back in 2015 in Bay Breeze RV Park during our first full time RV venture out of Florida.  He pointed us towards the easternmost point of Maine, which led to some quick research on the region and the decision to check out Lubec for a few days before moving on to Canada.


Local artist mural on the wall of the local Lubec brewery.

What a great recommendation and lucky decision!  Let’s start with our campground, Sunset Point RV Park, selected after our usual cross referencing of Passport-America (no options in the area,) All Stays, and RV Park Reviews.  It is situated on a bay with all sites pointed west towards the water.  Upon arrival we worked with the front desk to switch our spot from the second of two rows to a water front option, and ended up with fantastic views out our front window and a lovely seating area looking out over the bay.


In front of our site at Sunset Point RV Park.

The town of Lubec, the easternmost town in the US, is great; picturesque and quaint with a few art galleries and crafty shops, nice little parks, and a brewery.  Lubec Brewing Company, which we found via the Maine Beer Trail, was undergoing extensive renovation during our stay, but the owners insisted on bringing us in and giving us a taste of what they had open, even pouring as a sample directly from one of the big tanks.  In addition to having great beer, they have really interesting design and artwork on their labels and building.  Highly recommended stop if you’re in the area.


Straight from the vat!

We enjoyed several outings, one of which was south to Machias, a little town with a nice waterfall and another brewery, Machias River Brewing Company.   We are seeing an interesting spectrum of breweries now that we are visiting more of them.  On one end you have the very small “mom and pop” places focusing solely on their beer; they don’t have any outside brews and no food at all.  They tend to be more intimate, and you are likely to meet the actual owner and/or head brewer.  Strong Brewing Company is a nice example of this.


One of the falls in Machias.

At the other end of the spectrum you have full on restaurant/bars that also happen to have their own brewery, which may not even be on premises.  You get the full treatment of beer and a meal if you are so inclined, and might even have live music if you go on a popular evening.  Machias River is more towards this end of the spectrum.  6-site-rose

You can’t go to the easternmost town in the US and not make a pilgrimage to the actual easternmost point of land, right?  So we included a trip out to West Quoddy Head Lighthouse.  We had a nice tour of their museum and the grounds, though no access to the actual lighthouse top.


Quoddy Head Lighthouse

The best day trip by far was our outing to Campobello, a Canadian owned island across the Lubec Narrows.  Border control on both sides is used to a daily influx of tourists, and have made it a relatively easy process going in and out.  The island is home to Roosevelt Campobello International Park, a joint venture between Canada and the US.  FDR’s quite wealthy parents purchased land and built a “cottage” here in the late 19th century as the place was becoming a summer retreat for the rich; sort of a Bar Harbor for those that found Bar Harbor not quite exclusive enough.


Lighthouse on Campobello Island

FDR spent much of his youth on the island, and once he came of age and married Eleanor, his parents purchased the 34 room house nearby, which would become his family’s summer retreat even into his presidency.  The original house was modified to accommodate his wheelchair, secret service, children, and staff.


FDR’s 34 bedroom “cottage”

In addition to FDR’s summer house we toured other parts of the island, enjoying the coastal views, some light hiking, a bit of geocaching, and some excellent sea glass hunting at a location provided by a local.  Visiting Campobello Island is our top recommendation for anyone in the region: it has history, nature, picturesque views, hiking, biking, and enough of a town that you won’t go hungry should you need a bite and a pint.


Frog Rock on Campobello Island

As for the sea glass hunting, we had great success in two places, a particular beach on Campobello, and the bay directly accessible from our RV park.  Accessing them both near low tide we found plenty of pieces, some good colors, and a couple of excellent large specimens.


Seaglass: the bottom of a Sunsweet prune juice bottle from the 1940’s or ’50’s.

Our geocaching was mostly in concert with our trip to Campbello, downtown Lubec, and Machias (as opposed to my occasional dedicated outings.)  Going to a lighthouse?  Find a cache.  A park? Ditto. Beach? Same.  You get the picture.  This doesn’t delay our xploration by much but often takes us to places we might not have otherwise included.  All in all 13 caches of varying difficulty during our three day stay in the area. 12-geocache-lubec

Our perception of Lubec might have been improved by the excellent weather we enjoyed for the length of our stay, but we loved it so much that Rose did some casual property price investigation.  It will most definitely be on our next eastern circuit of the country, and ou should include it on your’s as well. 13-campo-pier

Next up: Canada!


More Campobello coast



Back to Ellsworth, Bar Harbor, and our favorite Moose.

We left Meadowbrook and headed about 100 miles up the road to Ellsworth, a mid-sized Down East town on the mainland outside of Bar Harbor.  We really enjoy Coastal Maine in general, the Bar Harbor region in particular, and the Ellsworth Moose lodge specifically.   I have said it on this blog before: of the 28 Moose Lodges we have visited, none matched the welcome we received at Ellsworth.  It made such an impression on us that during our visit last year we transferred our home membership there.  More on the Moose later.


There would be a lot of this going on during our stay in Ellsworth.

During our first trip here in 2016 we split time between Mount Desert Narrows (until the Passport America rate ran out) and Bar Harbor Campground (a first come, first serve park that got us through the July 4th weekend.)  We enjoyed Mount Desert Narrows enough that in 2017 we splurged on a full month there, a rare occurrence for us outside of Key West.  It was nice, but considering the steep price, even on the monthly rate, we resolved that this year we would stay closer to Ellsworth and pay a bit less, even if we weren’t right on the water.

After research we selected Timberland Acres RV Park, technically just outside Ellsworth in the small town of Trenton.   The office cooperated with our request for “green stuff near our site” and placed us against the tree line with another row of trees on one side.  The site was of moderate size, but the tree lines plus rarely having a neighbor made it seem far more spacious.  It wasn’t cheap: power and water for $38 a night for the first four (off season rate) and $43.50 for the last six, and those rates include a 15% military discount.  It’s all about location and amenities: this park aimed for the resort end of the campground spectrum and is located close to the popular tourist destinations of Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park.


PKM loving the warm concrete.

I believe we went to the Moose every other day, and always had a great time, but particularly so on Rosemarie’s Birthday.  I had put the word out that if any of the members could make it we would be providing cake.  We had about a dozen people there, and we couldn’t buy our own drinks all evening.  The cake, provided by Shaw’s, was beautiful and delicious as well.  We really look forward to coming back (in two years, we think) and visiting this Moose once they have moved into their new, nearly renovated building.



During an outing to Airline Brewing Company another couple there introduced us to the Maine Beer Trail, a fold out map and listing of all of the craft breweries in Maine.  Fantastic by itself, but it also offered a challenge: get  dated signature from staff at 10 different breweries, get a free Maine Beer Trail hat, visit 15 get a t-shirt, and visit them all get a secret special prize.  Count us in!  We only wish we had discovered it while we were still in Phippsburg since we hit three breweries in the region and would have been willing to go to more.  We would already be over ten by now! 5-brew-fogtown-flight-2

Oh well, in addition to Airline (great building interior, good food) we found Fogtown (a very hip, youthful vibe) in Ellsworth, and Atlantic (fantastic “Mainely Meats BBQ” on premises) on Bar Harbor.  During a day outing the Beer Trail map led us to Strong Brewing Company in Sedgwick, where we got to meet the actual owners and brewers.  I don’t know how many states have beer map with incentive concept going on, but I highly recommend it.


The quaint outdoor sitting area at Strong Brewing Company.

Did we Geocache? Of course we geocached, but only a little bit during already planned outings.  No dedicated afternoons searching, just seven or so caches during our stay while out and about.


Rose and the Deer Isle Bridge during a sea glass hunting expedition.

Rose discovered that Ellsworth had a twice a week farmers market, and after emailing in some information we were invited to participate as drop in vendors for up to two events.  We opted for a single Saturday, and set up on the designated small parking lot on a beautiful sunny day with light winds.  There were only about a dozen total sellers, but we had a steady stream of people and ended up doing very well.  8-market

What could make the day even better?  How about a Shriners Parade?  The Maine Shriners were having their annual convention, which is held at the current Potentate’s (head guy, president, etc) home town, or at least home area.  I don’t recall ever seeing a Shriner’s parade, just a few of the funny little cars included as part of a larger event.  This was all Shriners, and it was far bigger and more complex than I anticipated.  They had dozen’s of different groups of vehicles, a couple of bands, marchers, trucks, clowns, a score of classic and high end convertibles, and more.  Since we had just closed up from our market we had our chairs ready and time enough to set them up in a prime location for the show.  What a great day.


One of many Shriners entertainment groups, Airline Brewing Company in the background.

That’s it for Ellsworth.  We had made loose plans to go straight to Canada, but a recommendation from Jim had us look at one last Maine local before heading across the border, so that will be our next post.  Oh, and only 12 days behind on the blog now! 10-shriners-1

Maine! Phippsburg, Bath, Boothbay Harbor

Four and a half years of full time RVing through 48 states and 5 Canadian provinces means we get to answer the “what was your favorite place” question a lot.  Aside from our winter home in Key West and other Florida faves, our usual answer is something along the lines of “We can’t narrow it down to one place, but we really loved Nova Scotia, Washington’s Whidbey Island, Idaho’s Salmon River, Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, and Coastal Maine.  Yes, I know, they are all north of The Wall, but we have the advantage of visiting them only during the late spring, summer, and early fall.


It was definitely campfire weather this stop.  Our spacious site on the edge of the woods.  

These are destination spots for us, and thus no eastern circuit of the US will fail to see us in Maine, and hopefully Nova Scotia and the U.P. as well.  We included all of them in our 2019 route planning, and the first week of June we finally made it back to Meadowbrook Camping Area in Phippsburg, ME.  We first discovered this great park in the woods back in 2016 as merely a place for me to hang while Rose was visiting relatives in Virginia.  But the location, price, amenities (on site lobstah pound!) and general ambiance brought us back in 2018.  We both loved it enough to make it our first stop in the state this year.


Rose discovered her new favorite drink, Woodchuck’s pear based cider.

During May, June, September, and October they honor the Passport America 50% discount rate, which we means we were paying $24 a day for full hook ups in a spacious site.  The have a pool, free wifi, hiking trails, fishing ponds, a paint ball arena, and more.  Did I mention the on site lobstah pound?  They have that as well, steaming your crustacean or clams to order at a great price.  The lay out of the park offers two sections depending on your preferences: the field with no trees to obstruct your satellite TV, or the wooded hill with every site under a canopy.  We chose the latter.


Splurged on two for my last lobster meal at Meadowbrook.

Phippsburg itself is tiny, but we found plenty to keep us occupied in the region.  Aside from the three dinners we enjoyed on premises, we also found Bisson’s Center Store, the bodega/convenience store that had the shockingly good pizza last year: order it with extra cheese for a decadent experience.  Bath is just a few miles away with plenty of restaurants, shops, and Bath Brewing that, in addition to excellent pale ale, serves a mean burger with bacon-onion jam.  4-pizza

Boothbay Harbor is only a half hour drive, and we love that area.  We headed there twice during our six day stay, hitting the farmers market, two breweries, and Kaler’s, the restaurant/bar we patronize during every visit.  The market is small, perhaps 15 vendors, but we had a wide variety of choices for cheese, baked goods, and veggies. 5


We first came to Boothbay Harbor with Linda (while she and Jayson were stationed in Maine) on a cold rainy day years before Rose and I were RVers.  We sought refuge in Kaler’s.  One our fond memories from the region, and we keep coming back. 

Footbridge Brewery had opened within weeks of our arrival, and the crew there were really fun, as well as providing excellent beer.  Boothbay Brewery has one of the coolest building interiors we have seen in a craft brew place, and has really gone out of there way to appeal to RVers: they have five RV sites with hook ups, though they are a bit pricey.


At the time of our visit, this was Maine’s newest craft brewery.

We incorporated some geocaching into one of our Boothbay trips, and I did a handful more in Bath while Rose manned the laundromat.  The dozen we did this first week of June is more than we did the first four months of the year, so we are starting to really get back into it.  I also have half a dozen or so “trackables” (small trinkets with a registration tag that lets you log them in and see where they have been, which for many is thousands of miles of travel) from Florida that I have now started dropping off in some of these northern locals.  See this post if you have know idea what I am talking about.  7-trackables

OK, still three weeks behind, but that will change after our next post detailing our Triumphant Return to Ellsworth and Bar Harbor.  8-fire-feet